Jared Ogden News
A mild snow winter made for incredible bouldering in and around Durango this winter. I discovered tons of new problems and put up at least a dozen new ones up to V9 and repeated Golden Delicacy V10 and nearly nabbed the sit start at V11 but it'll still be there when I find the right time to send. Late winter I made repeats of Indian Creek cracks Ruby's Cafe 5.13a, 2nd try, Death of a Cowboy 5.13a on fifth try, Less than Zero 5.13b on fifth try, and tried a dozen times on Pink Flamingo 5.13 but never made a clean redpoint despite several TR ascents...it just wasn't my week.
This spring was wet but I still found time to put up another new route in the Black Canyon. This time Topher Donahue and I discovered incredible rock on the right side of the Hooker Buttress putting up the 12 pitch The Blacksmiths V 5.12. It was a perfect send with no falls either leading or following. Summer has blown past in a wave of heat and rain but finally temps are cooling and I'm heading back to the Black Canyon to find more adventures.
This just in! I've signed on with Petzl and Fortress Watches to use, abuse and promote the finest gear and time pieces out there today!
FREE ASCENT OF MOUNT BARRILLE’S EAST FACE, RUTH GORGE, ALASKA
Ryan on pitch 4, 5.9
Jared on pitch 11, 5.10c
SMOKING ON THE HALLUCINOGEN WALL!
On May 12th Ryan Nelson and I made our way up the Hallucinogen Wall in the Black Canyon in just under 9 hours! We climbed in blocks with Ryan taking pitches 1-7, me on 8-14, and Ryan again on the last two. We did a lot of short-fixing and free climbing to make such fast progress. It was super cool to be back on the route a year after we freed it. It's such an awesome line! To see photos of the route scroll down this page.
A few days later Topher Donahue and I did a new five pitch free start to High and Dry that finishes on the free diagonal. The climbing is SICK and super worthy! On the second pitch you climb across a 40-foot roof by climbing out a floorlesschimney then underclinging laybacking a finger crack! The rest of the new pitches are really clean on solid rock with good protection and make for a superb start to the free diagonal. The Rectagonal V 5.12- topo is available at the ranger station on the north rim. You'll be really psyched you did it!
April 28, 2005 BIG WALL CLIMBING: ELITE TECHNIQUE, AVAILABLE NOW!
My first book titled "Big Wall Climbing: Elite Technique" published by The Mountaineers Books will be available on the shelves in May and can be purchased online now at these locations!
As part of their Expert Series, the book is geared toward experienced climbers who want to learn the skills necessary for climbing big walls. The 207 page book is published in full color with over 100 personal instructional photos and illustrations.
March 1, 2005. OUTSIDE profiled me in the Dispatches section in regards to my recent "drytooling"antics. Check me out on page 28 trying not to stab myself while trying to eat noodles with ice tools!
Dec. 19, 2004 FIRST ASCENT OF MONSTER MIXED ROUTE "JEDI MIND TRICKS"
Dec. 19 2004. Ryan and I finally sent our new route in Lake City which we called Jedi Mind Tricks. It's by far the hardest thing either of us has done mixed climbing and we decided not to rate it until others have climbed it and we can come to a confirmed rating. The cave is huge with three routes so far and later in the season a 125-foot grade V ice pillar forms where you see the curtain of ice on the left. Jedi Mind Tricks follows lots of small keyhole like pockets to the curtain on the right and sports very technical movements that were pretty hard to master. You pass 20 bolts to reach the ice requiring powerful pulls, long reaches, and the sickest pump you'd ever imagine. The other two routes climb out to the curtain on the left and fell in the M8+ and M9 range. The cave sits at 10,500 feet making you pay the piper with every attempt and adding to the difficulty. We fell really lucky to have scored such gems and the potential for more of the hardest mixed routes is just beginning. Contact me if you want more information on the climbs and how to get to them. They start forming in November and usually last till late March.
2, 2004. HARD NEW FREE ROUTE COMPLETED IN GREENLAND
COLO. On August 2, 2004 Nathan Martin and I completed the first
ascent of ourProwed and Free route, V 5.12+. The route was
done in-a-day without the use of any fixed ropes or jumars: a first for
any route on Nalumasortoq or Ulamertorssuaq. These granite towers, located
in the Tasermiut Fiord on the southern tip of Greenland, have seen a lot
of activity in the past several years however this is the first time a
new route on either of these formations was done with the light and fast
approach marking a significant advancement in style.
July 2nd we started our 34-day expedition by climbing the 2,500-foot route
Non Ce Due Senza Tre, V 5.11+, on the right pillar of
Naulmasortoq to within two hundred feet of the summit in a day before
retreating in the dark. The following day it started to rain and continued
for the next 12 days. After three days of clear weather we started up
the central pillar by following the first eight pitches to the 2003 highpoint
that Nathan reached with Tim ONeil on a previous expedition. From
here we followed excellent hand to finger cracks that would lead to the
summit, however three difficult pitches required cleaning forcing us to
hang on gear and forfeiting the free ascent on that attempt. We reached
the summit at sunset and rappelled the route confident that another attempt
would lead to a successful free ascent. Then it rained for 16 days straight!
the skies cleared and on August 2nd we completed our route all-free-in-a-day!
The dead-vertical route is stacked with hard crack climbing including
five pitches of 5.12 in a row starting at pitch 8 with two of them ranking
in at 5.12+. It's just an amazing line. To complete the route all-free
in a day was our ultimate goal and success came after a long period of
anxious waiting. It was amazing that everything came together at the last
minute to pull off such a great climbing achievement in the area. Were
really stoked we could push it so hard and usher in what we think is the
ultimate style of ascent on our route. Hopefully future ascents will try
the same style.
Jared leading pitch 12, 5.12-. Photo by Nathan Martin
and motivated from such a successful ascent and with one day left before
the boat arrived to pick us up, we set out to climb the classic route
Moby Dick VI 5.13-, on the 3,000-foot tall Ulamertorssuaq.
We shattered the previous speed ascent of 28 hours by racing up the route
in 11 hours and 56 minutes, pulling on the occasional piece of gear but
free climbing most of the route. It really left an impression on the remaining
climbers in basecamp on how things can be done. Several parties had done
the climb earlier but had fixed hundreds of feet of rope and spent at
least two days on the climb. On our return they were shaking their heads
and asking us how the hell we climbed so fast. We shared a toast to all
our successes with bloody knuckles.
Nathan Martin leading pitch 8, 5.12+.
more information, contact me at: firstname.lastname@example.org. Climbing
ran a feature on my climbs in Greenland in the March 2005 issue #237.
MAY 4, 2004. NEW ROUTE IN THE BLACK CANYON: TAGUE YER TIME V+ 5.12
May 4 & 5 Topher Donahue and I climbed a new sustained hard free climb
in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Their new route, Tague Yer Time V+
5.12, named in memory of our friend Cameron Tague, climbs the 2,000-foot
South Chasm View wall via 14 pitches of thin face and crack climbing.
We had climbed the route last October but were unable to redpoint the
route at the time because we were doing a ground-up ascent that required
cleaning and we ran out of time. The climbing is sustained from the difficulty
of six pitches of 5.12, five pitches of 5.11, and three moderate pitches
that require total concentration and a lot of time. The route climbed
nine new pitches and shared a few pitches with other routes for a clean
and exciting new route.
MAY 20, 2004. HALLUCINOGEN WALL GOES FREE AT VI 5.13-R D10+
Hallucinations VI 5.13-R M10+ By Jared Ogden
Jared leading pitch 12, 5.13- R, Photo by Topher Donahue
an unknown climber who added a few bolts on an A5 hooking pitch, the route
features steep rock with fearsome runouts and hard climbing through incredibly
wild roofs near the top. The route had a few free pitches near the top
and bottom that lured me into thinking it might go free. After two recons,
one with Mike Shepard, one with Topher Donahue, I decided to do the route
wall style for further inspection.
Ryan Nelson leading pitch 9, 5.13-R Photo by Topher Donahue
Jared leading pitch 10, 5.13-R Photo by Topher Donahue
JULY 1, 2003. JARED OGDEN JOINS CLIMBING MAGAZINE AS CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
Jared, who has been contributing for over seven years to Climbing, signs on as Contributing Editor at Climbing Magazine as of July 1st.
Dec. 2004 issue # 235. Climbing Magazine ran a feature on a climb I did with Mark Synnott on Roraima Tepuis in the rainforest of Guyana.
2004 EPICS issue. Climbing ran my story "Beaten on the Shield" about speed climbing the Shield on El Capitan.
June 2003 issue #222. Climbing ran my feature titled "The Black Hole" using my photo on the cover. The story profiles in word and image some of the old and new classic routes on South Chasm View wall in Colorado's Black Canyon.
Alpinist published their 2005 Calendar featuring my photo of Alex Lowe on Great Trango Tower on the cover. I also wrote two reports for Alpinist 9 about new routes in the Black Canyon and in Greenland.
Alpinist Magazine #4: Climbing Notes Dept. First ascent reports on activity in the Black Canyon and Guyana, South America
Men's Journal Fall 2003: Features my photography illustrating Mark Synnott's article about a climbing expedition we did to the Tibetan Borderlands.
National Geographic Television, Fall/Winter 2003/2004. Television show documenting our first ascent on Roraima Tepui in Guyana, in South America.